#FLUX CAPACITOR FOR FREE#
#FLUX CAPACITOR SERIAL#
#FLUX CAPACITOR CODE#
#FLUX CAPACITOR PC#

#FLUX CAPACITOR SERIAL#

Use the Arduino IDE’s Serial Monitor (or a program that treats a USB as a serial port, like PuTTY or TeraTerm) to see the velocity data from the radar. set the data rate for the SoftwareSerial port SoftwareSerial ops241Serial(12, 11) // the OPS241 MISO->12 and MOSI->11 pins This merely copies bytes between the Serial output and the OPS241.

#FLUX CAPACITOR CODE#

It looks like the code below, but I changed the name of the Serial object. You simply need to assign the correct pins and take out the unnecessary “Hello World” print line. The SoftwareSerial page at provides a great start for this step. If you use an OPS242, you should use an Arduino that runs at 3.3 V. If you have an OPS241 without shield headers installed (or an OPS 242, which is not a shield), you can skip to Step 2, where we talk about using jumper wires. The OPS241 has UART pins exposed to Arduino digital pins 11 (labeled MOSI- I try to remember it as Output-to-others-Input) and 12 (labeled MISO- Input-from-others-Output) In case you worry about such thing, the OPS241 also has voltage level shifters that brings Arduino Uno’s 5V down to the 3.3 V required by the ARM chip on the OPS24x. TEST the LEDS with Transformer at 12V making sure none of the soldered connections touch.Plugging the OPS241 as a shield into the Arduino Uno is the simplest starting point. Note the leds were wired up in series after they were threaded though the holes in the plywood. If each LED needs 200mAs and at 12V all that is missing is Rīut to get away with out a resister just add another led, :D you can get away with using 3 leds BUT YOU WOULD NEED A RESISTER. all of the 4 leds were now wired in SERIESĪnd would require 12V to run them. This means daisy changing them taking the negative terminal and soldering it to the positive terminal of the next led, so when i was finished i had one positive terminal not soldered at one end and 1 negative terminal not solider at the other end. (red and orange) or Green and Green.Īs it gave a nicer glow from the green i went with them. Once i was happy about how it would look and which colour of leds i was going to use. this allowed me to play around with lighting it and no fear of burning out the leds at 5v since they are all rated at about 5vs That means all the plus terminals were grouped together and all the negative terminals were grouped together. Test how it all looks does it look like the flux capacitor in bttf? What i did was got 2 old pcs and got 4 Green LEDS to being the same colour (ie orange and red is ok) Just to note, more leds = more lights but more leds means the leds are not as bright but this is good as you dont want extremely bright leds in the back of your carįor this step you should have 4 leds its best if they are all the same colour or near enough. So for safety to prevent them from burning out we are going with 4, plus, more leds = more light

#FLUX CAPACITOR PC#

Reason for 4 leds is you are running a 12V batter power supply, and the pc operates at 0-5Vsīut that does not mean the LEDs are 5v leds, if they are only coming on for a second, they can be 3v leds So usually there will be Green Red Orange/ yellow

Hard disk and restart can be red or orange. Now as it turns out each of them can have different colours, > sometimes a reboot led beside the reboot button Stripping the old pc down you will notice there is leds on:

#FLUX CAPACITOR FOR FREE#

If you are like me you will have a least one old pc around the place, with windows 3.1 or 95 or something like that or have come a cross a old unwated pc and you get it for free :D

Flux capacitor